TRAVEL SOUTH AFRICA A LETTER FROM AFRICA Nr. 3

Hello My Dear Friends, 

I am back at base camp after an adventurous journey through South Africa, crisscrossing from east to west and then heading all the way north to the border of Swaziland. There, I met up with friends, and then we traveled back to the Cape via KwaZulu-Natal and Lesotho. I clocked 6,000 miles on my speedometer in approximately three weeks, with stopovers in several exquisite places, and here and there I rendezvoused with friends. My first sleepover was at the Lord Milner Hotel (established in 1883) in a place called Matjiesfontein.

LORD MILNER HOTEL MATJIESFONTIEN IMAGE: NOLEEN KUTASH ©

Everything on this quarter-mile street (old town) is part of the hotel. The bar is located in what used to be the town’s post office. The coffee shop is now in the town's former bakery, and the hotel’s reception area used to be the old grocery store. Staying at the Lord Milner means you walk all over town to reach different parts of the hotel. It’s the tiniest place I have ever seen, and there is nothing besides the train station and the Lord Milner, not a thing as far as the eye can see. Dinner was served by candlelight, and there was a dress code; men had to wear jackets and ties, and therefore, the ladies were all dressed up as well. The old train station across from the hotel is now a museum, and I spent hours nostalgically wandering around.

 

STATION MATJIESFONTEIN IMAGE: NOLEEN KUTASH ©

Matjiesfontein’s tracks are as busy as ever, and even South Africa’s world-famous Blue Train appeared, seemingly out of nowhere. I was out and about at the crack of dawn, taking pictures, and as I peered through my lens at the tracks, right there in my viewfinder was the majestic sight of the Blue Train gliding smoothly along the rails. The morning light cast a golden glow over everything, making the scene even more picturesque. I felt a sense of awe and excitement witnessing such an iconic train in this quaint town. 

As the train passed by, I couldn't help but reflect on the rich history and charm of Matjiesfontein, where past and present coexist in perfect harmony. With each click of my camera, I captured not just images but also memories of a place that felt like stepping back in time. Matjiesfontein is a hidden gem, a place where stories from the past linger in the air, waiting to be discovered.

BLUE TRAIN IMAGE: NOLEEN KUTASH ©

The Blue Train made its way through the station in hushed silence. Bright and early the next morning, I was on my way to De Aar to visit a new friend I made while on a photography course when I first arrived in South Africa. Martisan had invited all of us on the course to visit her in De Aar. However, I was the first to take her up on her invitation and had warned her that I would when she extended it. 

De Aar is located in the Great Karoo, not the Little Karoo on Route 62, which I have already written about in "A Letter From Africa Nr. 2." They’ve had a tremendous amount of rain, and I had never seen the Great Karoo this beautiful. The typically arid landscape was transformed into a vibrant tapestry of green, with wildflowers blooming in abundance and the distant mountains standing majestically against the clear blue sky. 

As I drove through the region, I felt a renewed sense of appreciation for the natural beauty of South Africa. The Great Karoo, with its vast open spaces and dramatic scenery, seemed to stretch endlessly, offering a sense of peace and solitude that is hard to find elsewhere. Meeting Martisan and exploring De Aar added a personal touch to the journey, reminding me of the connections and friendships formed during my travels.  

DRIVE THE KAROO IMAGE: NOLEEN KUTASH ©

It was quite a drive from Matjiesfontein, and all I had was a hand-drawn map to guide me to Martisan and her husband’s game farm. The drive was on an unpaved road for what seemed like an eternity, without any cars passing me in either direction. The landscape around me was vast and untouched, with only the occasional windmill and lone acacia tree breaking the horizon. It was both exhilarating and slightly unnerving to be so isolated in such a remote part of the country.

And then I reached an obstacle in the middle of the road—a large herd of sheep casually blocking my path. They were meandering across the dirt track without a care in the world, seemingly oblivious to my presence. What’s a girl to do?

I decided to take this unexpected pause as an opportunity to stretch my legs and enjoy the serene environment. Stepping out of the car, I was greeted by the fresh, earthy scent of the Karoo, and the distant sound of birdsong filled the air. With a little patience and some gentle coaxing, the sheep eventually made way, allowing me to continue my journey.

Finally, I arrived at Martisan’s game farm, where I was warmly welcomed with open arms. The farm was nestled amidst rolling hills, with stunning views of the surrounding landscape. It was the perfect place to unwind and experience the rugged beauty of the Great Karoo. Spending time with Martisan and her husband, I learned more about life on a game farm and marveled at the incredible wildlife that called this place home.

This adventure was a reminder of the unexpected joys of travel, where even a simple journey can turn into a memorable experience full of surprises and new friendships.

I could not call anyone, as my cell phone showed no reception. So, I got out of my car, rolled up my pants, and proceeded to zigzag through the water to figure out the depth. In some places, I sank in deep enough to know that attempting to cross was not something I was willing to try. The water was chilly, and the mud squelched beneath my feet, making it clear that this route was impassable.

With muddy feet and all, I got back in my car, turned around, and drove back the way I came in search of help. Approximately 15 minutes later, I surprised two Karoo bachelors when I drove up to their homestead requesting assistance. Their property was a quaint setup, with a charming farmhouse and a few scattered outbuildings.

The two men were in the middle of their daily chores and were quite amused by my unexpected appearance. They readily agreed to help and seemed excited about the opportunity to save a damsel in distress. After sharing a few laughs and exchanging stories about the unpredictable Karoo roads, they hopped into their truck and led the way back to the waterlogged path.

Upon reaching the obstacle, they expertly assessed the situation and guided me through a drier route I hadn't noticed before. With their help, I managed to bypass the flooded section and continue my journey to Martisan's game farm.

I was grateful for their assistance and kindness, a testament to the welcoming nature of the people in the Karoo. This experience reminded me that sometimes the road less traveled is filled with challenges, but it also leads to unexpected friendships and adventures. 

I arrived at Martisan and Julian Theron’s lovely home and was blown away by their hospitality and their amazing game farm, Plaatfontein, which spans 33,000 hectares. Julian is world-renowned for breeding trophy-quality deer, and the farm is a testament to his dedication and expertise.

From their home, I could see their hunting guest lodge, which sleeps 22 people, and it was magnificent. Everything about Martisan and Julian was impressive. Their home was tastefully furnished, my room and bathroom were amazing, and I just had the greatest time. The décor was a perfect blend of rustic charm and modern elegance, reflecting the natural beauty of the Karoo.

It did not take much to convince me to stay another night, as there was just so much to see, do, and explore on Plaatfontein, and I was eager to capture it all on camera. From the sprawling savannahs to the lush woodlands, every corner of the farm held new surprises and breathtaking views.

The following morning, I set out early with my camera, ready to document the rich wildlife and stunning landscapes. Herds of springbok and wildebeest roamed freely, and the birdlife was abundant, with vibrant flashes of color darting through the sky. I even had the chance to witness some of Julian’s prized deer in their natural habitat, a truly unforgettable experience.

Staying at Plaatfontein was more than just a visit; it was an immersive experience in the heart of South Africa’s natural beauty. I left with a camera full of photos and memories that would last a lifetime, grateful for the warmth and hospitality of the Therons and the unforgettable adventure on their incredible farm.

IMAGE NOLEEN KUTASH ©

KAROO IMAGE NOLEEN KUTASH ©

KAROO IMAGE NOLEEN KUTASH ©

KAROO IMAGE NOLEEN KUTASH ©

KAROO IMAGE NOLEEN KUTASH ©

**A Letter From Africa Nr. 4** will be about my next stop in Upington to reconnect with my other best friend from school, Ronel, and oh... it was so worth the 500-mile detour to spend quality time with her on the banks of the Orange River, where she has a beautiful home, guest house, and vineyard.