A LETTER FROM AFRICA NAMIBIA Part 4 (the end)

The road to Sossusvlei in the Namib-Naukluft Park haunted me for days after I survived it. Whenever I would close my eyes I would see that road in front of me, like in the movies, where you have the actor’s point of view in a car chase. In a strange kind-of-way it felt good because I always appreciated that camera angle. I did however have to pinch myself, in bed, to confirm I’d not fallen asleep behind the wheel, for it was so vivid. I’m not being a drama queen here it’s a rough ride under any circumstances, but in a sedan vehicle near impossible. It demanded all my concentration and my eyes never left the road, not even once. It took me the greater part of the day to reach my destination, the Desert Campp, Approximately 2 miles from the gates of Naukluft Park in the Namib Desert. I just loved my secluded tented home, and as luck with have it, it was full-moon. Here are a few images of my surroundings at Desert Camp; including an abstract photo I took by increasing the ISO (speed) on my camera settings, and this creative move would come back to haunt me the very next day.

Desert Camp - Sossusvlei - Namibia ©Noleen Kutash

Unfortunately Sossusvlei has become a major tourist attraction; after enjoying such solitude in Namibia it was a different story at the gates of Namib-Naukluft Park. Naturally, I arrived at the entrance before anyone ells. Had my flask of coffee and my rusks, and not before long buses and every 4x4 you could imagined fell in line behind me. I received specific instructions where to go, as soon as I entered the gates, from a professional photographer at my photographic club back in Somerset West. I still had an hour’s drive to the carport; from here I would need to use a 4x4 shuttle service, to escort me to the Dead Pan. Named so because long ago it contained water and the trees you find there flourished. However they have been dead for more than 800 years. I wanted to take my first shots of the day here because of the lighting.

Sossusvlei - Namibia ©Noleen Kutash

The shuttle service sold tickets at the gate; the required speed limit inside the park was 35 miles. When those gates opened the lines where so far back that it seemed to go on forever, and people behaved like they do at a major close-out sale in a department store. At first I held to the speed limit, keenly aware that the sun was moving at a rapid pace. Realizing that at 35 miles an hour this speed could cost me the pictures; I had traveled thousands of miles to take. Thus I stepped on the gas, and before long was speeding like a bat out of hell, tailgating the guy who sold me the ticket for his shuttle service. We reached the carport where I came to a shrieking halt, grabbed my camera equipment and my water bottle, and literally leaped into the 4x4 shuttle, and told the driver let’s go!!! I’m on an photographic assignment and have to get to the Dead Pan NOW!

And here is my sad tale; remember my “artsy photography” the night before? When I pumped-up my ISO to take those desert shots; well I never changed the camera setting back for daylight. Needless to say I was distraught, I did correct my error however the images of the Dead Pan are void of the actual red color of the dunes at first light. Then the wind came-up out of nowhere and that sand started blowing and it was not pleasant. I packed up, took the trek back to where I had to catch the shuttle, and decided to call it a day. I now followed the 35 mile speed limit as I was making my way back to the entrance. I stopped several times in spite of the wind and took more pictures just because I did not want to leave empty handed.

Sossusvlei - Namibia ©Noleen Kutash

I visited another sight called “Sesriem” near the exit snapped some photos and then rewarded my self with lunch at Sossusvlei Lodge. Owned by the same group as the Desert Camp, only this one is a small luxury hotel. From here I went home took a shower, and hit the bed and had a long nap.

There was no time the next day to go back and re-photograph the Dead Pan at sunrise, because I was heading for Aus. I planed on using an alternative route to avoid those tourists and buses. I studied the map and enquired, from a native Namibian, at reception all my options. He informed me of this road that were not well known to tourists, and insured me I would not encounter any traffic. And so it was decided that I would take “the road less traveled” and head out well before sunrise to reach Aus by lunch time and was booked into Klein-Aus Vista I had a stunning room. Here are some images taken along this route…..

Namibia © Noleen Kutash

Back in Aus I spent the rest of the day watching the horses and witnessed the sunset of a lifetime.

I left before daybreak the next morning and continuing on to Fish River Canyon on the same traffic-less road ... and then……

I retrieved a steak knife from my cooler bag and cut off the straps – removed the hubcap – found the jack and the other necessary tools to begin the task at hand. Then far-off in the distance I heard a familiar sound of a vehicle (sound travel far in quiet open spaces.) My protective instincts kicked in almost immediately and I readied myself for a fight if need be; with pepper spray in my left-hand pocket and a steak knife in the right one I was also armed with the biggest tool from my toolkit in my right hand. I was ready and waiting to see if the car was going to stop and if their intentions were good. After all, I was a woman alone traveling in Africa, and at times this can be a very dangerous place, and I am extremely aware of this dismal fact. As the vehicle came closer I could make out three native Namibian men in the front seat of a pick-up truck slowing down and pulling-in behind me. I tightened my grip on the wrench. Inserted my left index finger under the protective flap of my pepper spray canister in my left-hand pocket; was conscious of my steak knife securely tugged in the other.

The men greeted me in a friendly tone and I reciprocated and pointed to my wheel with my wrench still clenched in my right hand, all the while turning my body in such a way that I kept a safe distance, and never turned my back on any of them. One of these men was a giant, and I thought if there is any monkey business, he’d have to go down first with the pepper spray, and then I’d have to whack him with the wrench real hard to bring him down, and wondered if I would have enough time to get to the others.

However all my preparedness for this fight was unfounded and before I knew it my spare was on. I emptied out my cooler bag, and they were loaded-up with beer and goodies. The Road House, they informed me, was only 18 miles away. I got back behind the wheel, my tunes resumed; my smile was back in place and my speedometer needle noticeably lower. Maybe going at 80 miles an hour on this road was not such a good idea.

I reached the entrance to the Road House (see image below) followed by the Fish River Canyon. I finally bid you farewell with images of Namaqualand in full bloom back in R.S.A. (used self-timer in the last images)

Love and kisses to all my beloved friends and especially to you Kyleen - your loving mother the African Explorer.

THE END.

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A LETTER FROM AFRICA NAMIBIA Part 4 (the end)